Chef Loi and fiancée Chen want to overturn the ordinary ‘Malaysian-style’ Western food into so much more than just ‘chicken chop’.
BEHIND the concept of Akar’s Restaurant – a new Western fusion establishment in Miri – is a passionate ambition, which is to transform the local culinary.
Cypril Loi and Clarissa Chen, the entrepreneurial couple behind this endeavour, want to overturn the ordinary ‘Malaysian-style’ Western food into so much more than just ‘chicken chop’.
“Definitely there is nothing wrong with the Malaysian-twist Western food, but after working in the United States for more than a year, I’ve realised that there is much more that Malaysians have yet to taste, and I am eager to bring them here,” said Chef Loi, 28.
Background
After having graduated with a Bachelor in Culinary Management from the University of Wollongong (UOW) Malaysia KDU University College, the Mirian underwent an internship at a hotel in Langkawi, and after that, got an opportunity to work at the Renaissance Birmingham Ross Bridge Golf Resort and Spa in Alabama, USA.
To Chef Loi, landing a job at a four-star establishment in the US could only be described as ‘an intensive course on everything that one must learn before taking the lead in the kitchen’.
“Spending 16 hours a day just grilling, helped perfect my skills in grilling, along with many other competencies. It was really an eye-opener for a Malaysian to learn so much about Western food,” he told thesundaypost.
Chef Loi returned to Malaysia some time in 2019, and received job offers to Dubai and Singapore. As he was looking forward to it, fate took a different turn when Covid-19 pandemic hit the world.
Persistent, he decided to look for opportunities in Sabah.
Chef Loi worked in a Western restaurant in Kota Kinabalu for a while, then later, in a bakery. It was during this time that he met his future fiancée, Chen, whom he hailed as ‘the inspiration behind Akar’s Restaurant’.
Beginning in Kota Kinabalu
“Actually, we first opened Akar’s Restaurant in Kota Kinabalu in 2022, on a much smaller scale with only a handful of tables and menu items.
“What I could say, though, was that the effort we put in to make it happen, we’re satisfied with feedback from customers,” he said.
Chen, 23, who managed the restaurant as its front manager, had always been passionate about the coffee culture and cocktail-making.
She took part in World AeroPress Championship in Kota Kinabalu in 2018, which was without any win, but her passion drove her to give it another try in the ‘Professional Coffee Athletics (PCA) 2019 Borneo Brewer Cup Competition’, which she lifted the championship trophy.
Chen was supposed to be representing Malaysia at the finale in Shanghai, but she had to give up the opportunity due to hectic work schedule.
“While brewing coffee is a skill I have picked up on the job as a barista, I have great interest in cocktail-making,” she said.
When the first Akar’s Restaurant was established in Kota Kinabalu, Chen was diligently juggling work and her Diploma in Management studies, whilst continuing to explore cocktails.
Amidst the success in Kota Kinabalu, the two decided to relocate the restaurant to Miri, as Chef Loi wanted to return to his roots.
“I have seen plenty of food scenes in Peninsular Malaysia, Sabah and overseas. I realise that there is opportunity here in Miri that is yet to be explored, and I can’t wait to bring the best food for the locals and expatriates to taste.”
The best-sellers
For the menu of their just-opened restaurant in Miri, the couple brought back with them some items that were the best-sellers in Kota Kinabalu.
In this regard, Chef Loi was really determined in making sure that the taste would remain similar, even if some ingredients were not readily available in Miri.
“In such cases, these ingredients will be sourced and purchased in Sabah, and sent to Miri,” he said.
“I feel proud to be able to bring in the finest cooking methods,” he added.
Among Akar’s dishes eagerly highlighted by the chef are ‘Pasta Shrimp and Kombu X.O.’, ‘Into The Woods Pizza’, ‘American-Italian Buffalo Wings’, ‘Steak Frites’ and ‘Chicken Garlic’.
The ‘Into The Woods Pizza’, despite being dairy-rich, is surprisingly fresh.
‘Steak Frites’ features New York strip steak pan-seared ‘au jus’ (in its own juice) served with sides of Parmesan fries, scallions chimichurri and salad.
The name ‘X.O.’ derives from ‘Extra Old’ – a highly premium standard for cognac, very popular among the vintage liquor lovers in Chinese markets such as Hong Kong and Singapore.
In culinary, however, it is a chic condiment that almost always contains no cognac; rather, it is made from a variety of exotic ingredients, usually fermented, such as seaweed, ‘kombu’ (dried kelp) and Oriental truffles.
The Kombu X.O. pasta dish on Akar’s menu has, of course, X.O. sauce, with gulf shrimps mixed in, garnished with ‘katsuobushi’ (salted tuna) flakes and topped with ‘62-degree-Celcius’ egg.
‘Into The Woods Pizza’ is surprisingly fresh with a medley of mushrooms enriched with ‘mornay’ sauce (made from milk and cheese) and topped with mozzarella cheese and dollops of truffle pesto.
The buffalo wings are some of the juiciest that one can expect, while the twice-cooked half chicken with garlic is elevated with Akar’s special dry rub and garlic confit, served with a side of smooth country mash and finished with brown gravy.
Akar’s buffalo wings are some of the juiciest that one can expect.
The succulent Chicken Garlic, with its flavour elevated with Akar’s special dry rub and garlic confit.
Chef Loi’s creativity is clearly exhibited in his fusion creations, one of which is the ‘Mala Biatta’ – the amalgamation of fiery dishes originating from Chinese and Italian cooking, respectively.
It comprises spaghetti cooked in a spicy Szechuan marinara, complemented with lotus and scallions, and topped with smoked duck.
“I noticed that there are lots of hotpot restaurants here and ‘Mala’ (tongue-numbing seasoning made from Szechuan peppercorns and chilies) is very popular amongst the locals.
“One bite into the ‘Mala Biatta’ allows one to experience the best of both worlds,” the chef chimed in.
The ‘Mala Biatta’, a fiery fusion of Szechuan and Italian influences.
For dessert lovers, they must try Akar’s Burnt Cheesecake, with Mascarpone Cream, Burnt White Chocolate and Akar’s Tiramisu.
“In Italian, ‘tiramisu’ means ‘pick-me-up’, so metaphorically, it makes me happy. This said, I want this dessert to create special experience to the diner, both on the palate and the mood.
“The burnt cheesecake – the secret would only be understood once one took a bite,” said Chef Loi.
Dessert lovers must try Akar’s Burnt Cheesecake, with Mascarpone Cream, Burnt White Chocolate and Akar’s Tiramisu.
“All in all, Akar’s concept is about value and quality where one can expect a huge portion of serving at a good price without compromising the taste and quality,” he added.
Akar’s Restaurant is pork-free, and it also has non-alcoholic beverage selections.
“We assure all customers that in making alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, different utensils are used,” said Chef Loi.
Combo photo shows three items from Akar’s beverage selection (from left): ‘Plum Mojito’, ‘Matcha Berries’ and ‘Berries Fizz’.
Located on Lot 2180 at the ground floor of Block 9, Miri Commercial Land District not far from Pullman Hotel Miri Waterfront, Akar’s Restaurant is open Thursdays to Tuesdays, with lunch-time from noon to 3pm, and dinner time from 6pm to 10pm.