Authentic Malay cooking class with guests at Hawa’s Artisan Kitchen.
(March 23): Like many Sabahans, I once considered migrating for better opportunities. Thirteen years ago, a writing assignment in Lahad Datu changed my perspective. I covered a cycling tour by Bike and Tours, owned by Simon Werren, a Swiss, and his lovely wife, Itisha ‘Tish’ Mahadi, a native of Ampang, Selangor. Their warmth and hospitality, undeniably Bornean, showed me that ‘greener pastures’ could exist anywhere, even in a small obscure town like Lahad Datu.
A decade later, the pandemic forced Bike and Tours to pivot, transforming into a bed and breakfast and launching Hawa’s Artisan Kitchen (HAK). HAK offers an intimate Malay dining experience, featuring dishes like Tish’s mother’s signature Johor Laksa, which has garnered praise from popular influencers like Baki Zainal.
HAK also produces local products, including Mount Kinabalu Arabica Coffee beans, Sabah Rainforest Coffee beans, sambal pastes (with vegan options), Moringa powder, Blue Pea Flower powder, and customisable Ethnic Serdang Gift boxes. Notably, a portion of their profits supports reforestation work in Bukit Piton, an orangutan habitat. I recently spoke with Tish about the evolution of Bike and Tours and Hawa’s Artisan Kitchen.
1. Tell us more about your background in the Sabah tourism industry.
Bike and Tours, established in 2011, grew from a passion for eco-tourism. The idea for our cycling tours sparked after Simon and I journeyed by bike from Kota Kinabalu to Semporna. Recognising Lahad Datu’s strategic location, we envisioned it as an ideal midpoint for travellers exploring Sabah.
Our tours prioritise immersive experiences in Sabah’s stunning natural landscapes, focusing on traffic-free areas like Silam Mountain, Danum Valley Conservation Area, and Imbak Canyon. Cycling through these scenic forests offers guests an unparalleled connection with the rainforest’s beauty.
Beyond nature, we believe food is a vital part of cultural understanding. We weave Malaysia’s rich culinary heritage into our tours, particularly for those stopping in Lahad Datu. Our Silam-Taliwas Ride, for example, features a memorable traditional lunch by the Taliwas River. We proudly serve Laksa Johor, including a vegan option, a recipe even acclaimed by Johorean presenter, Baki Zainal.
We’ve also embraced the role of nomadic chefs on tours to Sungai Kapur and Imbak Canyon. Equipped with everything from pots and pans to portable stoves and chilled ingredients, we create stylish, wholesome meals amidst nature’s grandeur.
While the effort behind these meals may go unnoticed, the genuine appreciation from our guests after a day of cycling or trekking is incredibly rewarding. Sharing a satisfying, home-cooked meal becomes a cherished highlight, a moment of connection after a day of adventure.
Hawa’s Artisan Kitchen’s Arabica Coffee beans.
2. How did Bike and Tours evolve to birth Hawa’s Artisan Kitchen (HAK)?
Looking back, the pandemic’s onset was a devastating blow. The prolonged uncertainty brought immense financial and emotional strain. We faced tour refunds and the deterioration of our stored bicycles due to humidity and heat. Our savings dwindled, but we persevered, deeply grateful for the support from Motac, Tourism Malaysia, and Sabah Tourism Board.
Leveraging our culinary experience, we pivoted to serve our local community, launching Hawa’s Artisan Kitchen (HAK) in November 2020. Named after my late mother, whose cooking evoked cherished memories, HAK focused on Heritage Malaysian Cuisine —comforting, time-honoured dishes often reserved for special occasions. We delivered nasi lemak, laksa Johor, and other beloved meals directly to homes, offering a taste of home during the movement control order (MCO).
As borders reopened, HAK evolved into a private dining experience and a community hub. We created an intimate, reservation-only ‘supper club’, offering an alfresco set menu showcasing local produce and foraged ingredients from our Syntropic Farm.
We don’t have a fixed menu. Instead, we offer a surprise, like a Hari Raya open house, trusting our guests to embrace our curated meal. This approach minimises waste, streamlines operations, and highlights the authenticity of our dishes.
3. What inspired you to start an F&B establishment?
While Bike and Tours remains a tour company at its core, we’ve expanded our focus to specialise in food and agriculture tourism. We now offer unique, immersive experiences that connect visitors to the region’s rich agricultural heritage and vibrant local cuisine. Our food tourism venture, Hawa’s Artisan Kitchen (HAK), showcases authentic Malaysian meals crafted from fresh, locally sourced ingredients.
4. Tell us about the Bukit Piton reforestation project.
We started the Bukit Piton reforestation project in 2017. Initially, we aimed to restore half a hectare, committing to five years of essential maintenance. However, we quickly learned that without meticulous care, seedlings in degraded areas struggle to survive, succumbing to creepers and parasites.
During the pandemic, we diligently managed funds, largely from past Bukit Piton tour participants. Today, we’re committed to reforesting 16.5 hectares with a robust five-year maintenance plan. The pandemic highlighted the critical need for sustainable funding. We were forced to actively seek donor renewals, juggling business survival with our pro bono reforestation efforts.
This experience spurred the creation of Synborneo, driven by a shared vision to secure long-term funding for Bukit Piton and future Sabah reforestation projects, establish the Synborneo farm as a replicable model for local farmers, and utilise farm surplus to support reforestation in protected areas, aiding wildlife conservation, especially for orangutans, and combating climate change. At the same time, as F&B operators, we also seek to promote sustainable, healthy local produce that protects the environment.
Hawa’s Artisan Kitchen’s Ethnic Serdang gift box.
5. What is your proudest moment as the founder of HAK and social entrepreneur?
While HAK defies the traditional restaurant label, it’s a heartfelt endeavour to promote Sabah’s food and agrotourism.
Seeing local guests return, bringing their loved ones, is incredibly fulfilling. And the immediate, enthusiastic feedback from international visitors, followed by their wonderful reviews, is deeply rewarding. These experiences, these connections, are what truly matter. They inspire us to continue sharing the authentic flavours and agricultural stories of Sabah.
Itisha, Simon and their two daughters, Olivia and Emelyn.
6. Both you and your husband are non-Sabahans. What made you fall in love with Lahad Datu and what made you stay after many years?
Fourteen years in Lahad Datu, and it’s truly become home. We’re captivated by its raw natural beauty — the proximity to Tabin, Silam, Bukit Piton, and Danum Valley is incredible. And the underwater world of Darvel Bay? Simply breathtaking! Plus, the quiet serenity of places like Payang Beach is a rare treasure.
Our business, thriving before the pandemic, is steadily recovering. Our daughters are deeply rooted here, their friendships a constant source of joy. Ironically, the pandemic, while challenging, forged unexpected, profound friendships. It gifted us with deeper connections we might have otherwise missed.
Ultimately, it’s the blend of nature, community, and the genuine spirit of this place that keeps us here.
Sabah is home, and we’re profoundly grateful for it.
7. In your opinion, what makes Sabah special as a tourism destination?
Moving from Selangor to Sabah was a revelation. I discovered a region blessed with extraordinary natural beauty. Sabah offers everything: stunning landscapes, untouched beaches, wild rainforests, and thrilling river adventures. It’s a place that fosters a healthier lifestyle for residents and offers travellers immersive experiences beyond city limits — think jungle treks, diving, and wildlife encounters. Plus, the incredible bounty of local produce creates a vibrant culinary scene, a cultural feast for any visitor.
8. What are your messages for aspiring business owners in Sabah?
Embrace your unique vision and believe wholeheartedly in your ideas. Let passion and inspiration be your guiding light. Especially in tourism, hospitality, and F&B, remember that people are of utmost importance.
Our guests, suppliers, and team members are the foundation of our success. Therefore, we prioritise genuine connection, as a simple nod, smile, or thank you can create lasting bonds.
Lastly, take time to rest. Regular breaks and holidays are essential for rejuvenation, allowing you to return with renewed energy and drive.
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