When you think of lobsters and oysters today, you imagine candlelit dinners, fancy table settings and a hefty bill at the end. But would you believe these culinary stars were once the equivalent of canned sardines – cheap, abundant and looked down upon? Their transformation from “trash food” to luxury cuisine holds a lesson for us, especially for food uses with palm oil.
Lobsters: From Prison Food to Haute Cuisine
In colonial America, lobsters were so plentiful that they washed ashore in piles, much to the dismay of prisoners, servants and even pigs, who were fed this “low-class” food. Lobsters were sold for pennies per pound and were even used as fertiliser. The turning point came during the U.S. Civil War, when canned lobster was introduced as a ration for soldiers.
Later, rail travel and tourism added the final flourish. Lobster, cooked live on train dining cars, offered diners their first taste of its fresh, delicate sweetness. By the early 20th century, lobster had clawed its way out of the bargain bin and onto fine dining menus, with prices to match.
Oysters: A Tale of Elegance and Supply-Demand
Oysters, too, were once abundant and cheap. In 19th century New York, they were the quintessential street food, sold by the dozen to anyone with a few cents to spare. Upscale restaurants began serving them raw on silver trays, and their association with elegance was cemented. Subsequently, overfishing and urban demand led to scarcity, turning oysters into a sought-after delicacy.
Ah, my memories of Cambridge! Cambridge, with its traditional residential areas – known as the ‘town’ in that curious ‘town and gown’ divide – is teeming with history at every corner. One of the quirkiest bits of trivia lies in a street name: Oyster Row. It’s a name that’s steeped in history, stretching all the way back to the nearby Stourbridge Common where fairs were held. Legend has it that the street’s name hails from the mountains of oysters consumed there during the local fairs. Back in those days, oysters were the poor man’s banquet. The shells, having fulfilled their gastronomic duty, were casually discarded like yesterday’s news. Over time, these discarded shells piled up and became part of the town’s history – turns out, nothing says ‘local flavour’ like a few million oyster shells!
And here’s the twist: those oyster shells are making a comeback. No, not as a trendy new snack or cuisine, but as they’re being pushed back to the surface by the roots of the growing trees. So, while the town’s residents go about their modern-day affairs, they might just find a little bit of history – well, popping up right underfoot.
Even Malaysia’s beloved see hum (blood cockles) were once far from the delicacies we know today. Lobsters were prison food, oysters were the sustenance of the working class, and see hum? I was told that in Hakka villages, they were fed to ducklings as an affordable protein source. One gunny sack of see hum then cost 50 sen!
History has a curious way of transforming the mundane into the magnificent. Palm oil’s journey mirrors the remarkable rise of lobsters and oysters – once humble, now revered as gourmet delicacies. With its bold flavours, vibrant colour and rich nutrients, palm oil holds similar untapped culinary potential. Just as these crustaceans became luxury icons through compelling storytelling, palm oil can be elevated by reconnecting it to its cultural roots and highlighting its health benefits. Positioned as a premium product, akin to extra-virgin olive oil, palm oil’s unique flavour and versatility can captivate chefs and food enthusiasts worldwide. By rebranding and offering it a refined identity, palm oil has all the ingredients transformation into a global culinary icon.
What Palm Oil Can Learn?
Is palm oil today in a similar position as the lobsters, oysters and see hum of old? Its global reputation as one of the commodities – a workhorse of the global edible oil industry, is more shadowed by controversy and blandness than celebrated for its true potential. As a refined, bleached and deodorised oil, it has been reduced to anonymity on supermarket shelves, indistinguishable from its counterparts like soybean, sunflower or canola (rapeseed) oil. The problem is that traditional refining strips palm oil of its most distinctive features – its vibrant red colour, its earthy and more importantly, its richness in natural plant nutrients.
Yet, this very perception undermines and removes its extraordinary and important benefits for human health. It is not just like another food oil; it is a natural powerhouse, brimming with plant nutrients like tocotrienols (a potent form of Vitamin E) and carotenoids (precursors to Vitamin A), phytosterols, squalene, coenzyme Q10 – and much more. It has deep roots in traditional cuisines across Africa and Southeast Asia, treasured for generations. Palm oil’s story needs not end there. What if we can reimagine its narrative and embark on a healthy path and rejuvenation?
The challenge lies in showcasing palm oil for what it truly can be when it steps out from the shadows of commodity status. Similar to other specialty products like lobsters, oysters and local see hum, palm oil has the potential to be offered as a premium specialty product – pure, natural, unrefined and brimming with flavour and health benefits.
Let us champion this specialty product as Red Virgin Palm Oil (RVPO), a name that resonates with quality, while sharing alignment with the RSPO’s (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) acronym and aspiration. This distinction would elevate the perception of palm oil and highlight its true full value.
Powers of Reimagination
National and international culinary showcases and competitions focused on palm oil.
History teaches us that perception is everything. The foods we now consider luxurious didn’t change their essence; what changed was how they were perceived, marketed and integrated into culture. Lobsters found their way into train dining cars and fine restaurants, oysters graced silver platters in urban centers, and see hum became a symbol of Malaysian street food heritage, in char kuey teow and others.
Palm oil’s transformation must begin with rediscovering its cultural roots and reintroducing its unrefined healthy form to the world. The new narrative should embrace one of heritage, sustainability, large health benefits and versatility waiting to be told. This vibrant and flavourful oil is not only a culinary delight but also a nutrient-dense alternative to its highly processed peers.
Palm oil’s next journey is more than a marketing exercise; it is an opportunity to reflect on how we value the resources that sustain us and facilitate to change the perceptions. What stories, enjoyments, pleasures and benefits do we talk about the foods we consume? How do we decide what is worthy of celebration and what is relegated to obscurity? The reinvention of RVPO is not just about elevating its status but also about recognising its true worth and benefits. Palm oil’s moment of rejuvenation awaits. Shall we begin rewriting its story?
Palate Re-education
Imagine palm oil making its grand debut as the nutrient-packed specialty product for the gourmet food stage. Its stunning red hue and bold flavour could become the centrepiece of high-end culinary creations that give it not just health benefits but also a visual and sensory appeal no other oil can match.
Chefs and foodies can be enticed to champion RVPO, much like lobsters were elevated by fine dining and oysters found fame in urban gastronomy. Picture it: RVPO drizzled over roasted meat and vegetables, enhancing their flavour and colour; used in artisanal bread for a subtle, smoky note; or as a key ingredient in innovative dressings and sauces – and power-packed with nutrients.
RVPO – or currently marketed as red palm oil (RPO) – are already available in select markets, yet its presence remains limited, catering mainly to those familiar with its bold flavours and rich heritage. Despite its large potential, RVPO’s current reach is a niche within a world of possibilities, waiting for the right moment and events to go big in the gourmet and health foods scene.
Re-educating global taste buds is no easy feat, but history offers countless examples of transformation. If food reinvention is possible for the Crustaceans, it’s certainly within reach for red palm oil. The key lies in effective marketing and storytelling. RVPO’s showcase can begin with its cultural roots in Africa and Asia, where its vivacious hue and unique flavour have been celebrated for generations. From hearty African stews to Southeast Asian curries, red palm oil has been an indispensable ingredient, not just for its taste but also for its nutritional value. Telling this story to the world, while showcasing its versatility in modern kitchens and slowly but surely introducing the change of taste buds can bridge the gap between tradition and contemporary culinary appeal.
Moreover, the world is increasingly demanding ethical, responsible and sustainable products. Palm oil’s rebranding can tap into this growing consciousness. By promoting sustainable cultivation practices and ensuring transparency across the supply chain, RVPO can position itself as more than just an ingredient – it can become a new symbol of 3Hs for palm oil – Health, Heritage and High-Value.
A Renewable Treasure
Lobsters and oysters have shown us how value lies not just in the product itself but in the dynamics and narrative woven around it. While the supplies of these shell-fish have dwindled and demand increased, palm oil remains affordable, renewable and incredibly versatile – meeting sustained demands of customers with qualities that make it a treasure waiting to be recognised. With innovation, reimagination and a sprinkle of gourmet magic, palm oil can transform ordinary to extraordinary foods, becoming the edible oil of choice not just for the masses but for the most discerning palates around the world. The question isn’t if it can happen – it’s when and which gourmet genius will start it off.
Happy Palm Oil Day
I have learned another idea from the lobsters. There are people who actually celebrate Happy Lobster Day every year. So, the idea of Happy Palm Oil Day, anyone?
It’s high time we consider dedicating a day to celebrate the extraordinary contributions of the oil palm to Malaysia’s economy, culture and global identity. With countless “food days” celebrated around the world – it’s only fitting for Malaysia (and can be done collectively with Indonesia and other palm oil producing countries under CPOPC umbrella), then it will be Happy International Palm Oil Day! – note that there is such festivity such as World Pasta Day!).
Happy National or International Palm Oil Day could be an annual event honouring the people involved and the crop’s vital role in food security, economic growth and sustainability. It’s a chance to channel all efforts and focused to showcase advancements in sustainable practices, educate the public on palm oil’s health benefits and celebrate its culinary versatility through food festivals, cooking demonstrations, other competitions and more.
To make this a reality, collaboration is key. Key stakeholders including the Ministry and its agencies, associations and industry players could come together to draft a blueprint. Social media campaigns with best dishes cooked with RVPO, public-private partnerships and grassroots engagements could help generate excitement and support for the idea.
Happy Palm Oil Day could be a unifying celebration of the nation’s pride in its golden crop. It’s not just about celebrating the oil palm; it’s about celebrating Malaysia’s journey, resilience and commitment to a sustainable future. This crop is more than just oil; it’s the essence of our nation’s shared history and prosperity. So, who’s ready to mark their calendars for Happy Palm Oil Day?
Power of Virginity Branding
Virgin and extra virgin olive oil vs red virgin palm oil (RVPO)
Earlier, I have proposed elevating commodity Crude Palm Oil (CPO) into a more marketable and appealing Natural Palm Oil (NPO) of Pure Palm Oil (PPO), taking inspiration from olive oil’s transformation into a premium, culturally revered product. I also delved into the red palm oil (RPO) earlier as a bold and distinct offering, but one thing remains, what is the basis for the ‘virginity branding’ in RVPO.
Olive oil owes much of its premium status to the differentiation created by “virgin” and “extra virgin” labels. These terms evoke purity, quality and artisanal care – powerful attributes that resonate with consumers. So, we merge RPO complete with the insertion of “virgin” to be RVPO, drawing from olive oil’s success.
Virgin olive oil emphasises minimal processing, preserving its nutrients, flavour and natural qualities. Similarly, RVPO shares the same attributes with no-solvent extraction used, its untouched nutritional richness and its heritage as a natural superfood. This branding can shift the narrative from palm oil as a generic commodity to a product which is luxurious, healthy and a gourmet option.
Olive oil, too, transitioned from a humble kitchen staple to a revered culinary treasure through branding innovation over generations. The virginity narrative played a significant role in this elevation, positioning olive oil as both gourmet and health-forward.
Virginity branding isn’t just about selling palm oil – it’s about reimagining the way for the world to appreciate palm oil. It’s about transforming perceptions and unlocking the true value of an ingredient with deep roots in tradition and untapped potential for the future. With the right approach, RVPO could become the lobster or olive oil of tomorrow – once undervalued, now indispensable.
In addition to olive oil, both canola and coconut oils have experienced successful rebranding efforts. Canola oil, which derives its name from a combination of “Can” (from Canada) and “ola” (from oleic acid) is no longer associated with rapeseed oil. The word “rape” comes from the Latin word rapum, meaning turnip, and refers to plants in the Brassica family. Coconut oil, was once vilified due to its high saturated fat content, has also made a comeback, particularly since the 2000s. Of these two examples, canola oil’s rebranding was intentional. This is a strategy we should consider for Malaysian palm oil as well.
To achieve this, the leadership and industry stakeholders must:
Define Standards: Establish clear parameters for what qualifies as RVPO, focusing on processing methods, purity and quality. Homogeneity and consistency will be important for RVPO.
Emphasise Health and Nutritional Benefits: Highlight the science with data and facts on the benefits of its antioxidants, vitamins, other phytonutrients and sustainable production story.
Niche Markets: Start introducing RVPO to health-conscious and gourmet food communities before expanding to broader audiences.
Leverage Storytelling: Craft a compelling narrative that connects RVPO to its historical and cultural origins while promoting its modern-day culinary appeal. The human use of oil palms is believed to date back as far as 5,000 years. In the late 1800s, archaeologists discovered a substance in a tomb at Abydos in Egypt that they concluded was originally palm oil which dated back to 3,000 BC. It is thought that Arab traders had brought the oil to Egypt. Queen Cleopatra, depicted by many as a ravishingly seductive proto-femme fatale probably would have used palm oil in her skin care routine including facial and spa treatments
RVPO Recipe for Success
Every culinary revolution begins with a recipe, and the journey of RVPO as a global delicacy is no exception. Imagine a gourmet menu showcasing dishes infused with the vibrant richness of RVPO and each bite introducing the world to a new experience.
A recipe isn’t necessarily a new idea – it’s often simply a rediscovery. A planter friend of mine, Chin Teng Lum recently shared that if we dig into the archives of The Planter magazine, we’ll uncover a gem of an article from the late 1970s. Written by an expatriate planter, it described how delicious lamb chops could be when grilled with freshly extracted red palm oil. His enthusiasm was palpable, as was his ingenuity in extracting the oil. According to his method, the process started with a pressure cooker. He used freshly collected loose fruit, extracting the vibrant red oil that would eventually transform his lamb chops into a masterpiece.
While looking for recipes, I also found an interesting read, “Palm Oil and Small Chop” by John Goble, hoping to find that elusive recipe for lamb chop cooked with pure palm oil. The author chose the title on the account of his happier memories in his seafaring days, associating with treats of palm oil chop. But, alas no recipe in that good book with very colourful tales of trade and travel in the little-reported post-colonial era in West Africa.
This also takes me back to my childhood days in Banting, where the simplest meals held the deepest flavours. I still remember my fried eggs cooked with palm oil extracted from the mesocarp of oil palm loose fruits which my mother collected from the oil palm trees. The aroma of the sizzling oil, rich and earthy, filled our modest kitchen, turning an ordinary egg into something extraordinary. For me, it wasn’t just food; it was a taste of hard work and love – a reminder of my mother’s resilience and the bond we shared together.
This forgotten story of lamb chop from the 1970s – and others, offer a perfect launchpad for RVPO’s rebranding. Why not compile a contemporary gourmet recipe book, starting with that long-lost lamb chop recipe? Add to it innovative dishes like RVPO-infused pasta sauces, quick stir-fried vegetables or even desserts with a tropical twist. So, let’s fire up the pressure cooker, dig into old magazines and start crafting the future of RVPO – one recipe at a time.
Rebranding palm oil as a specialty product is not just about marketing; it’s about reshaping perceptions of the broader palm oil story. RVPO could be the game-changer the palm oil industry needs to kickstart a transformative journey of a product that not only sustains but inspires, and is healthy. After all, if we can learn to love lobsters, oysters and see hum, let us believe that the world is ready for the red virgin palm oil.
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